Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Prince Edward Island to Nova Scotia (10/05/2010)

Today was relatively uneventful, with the highlight a 75 minute ferry ride from Prince Edward Island to Nova Scotia.

Once on Nova Scotia, it was a relatively short, but pleasant drive to our campground.  However, there were a few brief glimpses of fall color.


After reaching our campground ... we crashed, satin the sun and read.

Monday, October 4, 2010

Points East Coastal Drive (10-04-2010)

I guess we spoke to quickly about PEI police.  No sooner had we left our campground this morning that we passed our first police car.  Fortunately, Debbie was driving well under the sped limit.

Our trip took us onto the eastern third of the island today under bright sunny skies (although there were some high cumulus clouds which moved in later in the day).

Our first destination was Greenwich National Park on the north shore of the island, about which we'd heard great things. We were not disappointed.  Once there, we walked a path paralleling St. Peter's Bay, and passing two enormous birch trees which date back to the turn of the century when the land was still being farmed.  The trail then forked through a thick fir and spruce forest before emerging onto a floating wooden walkway
crossing a marsh
 and Bowley Pond
 before a trail rises through sand dunes
 and finally descending to the shore of the Gulf of St' Lawrence.

From there we continued north east along the shore road.  Our next stop was at the small fishing village of Naufrage, most notable for Shipwreck Point Lighthouse.

As we passed through what the map purported to be the centers of towns/villages along our route of travel, we discovered that many were, at best, mere road junctions ... with nary a gas station, post office or even a home in sight!

Arriving at North Lake,
(incidentally, the colorful sheds are where the fishermen store their traps, nets and other gear, at least during the season)
we discovered it bills itself as "the Tuna Capital of the World"' and at the time was hosting an international tuna competition with participants coming from as far away a Germany.

From there it was only a few miles to East Point, the most easterly end of PEI. Having also visited North Cape the day before, we were awarded a Tip-to-Tip certificate. Other than a lighthouse, badly in need of a paint job,
a short but steep, red rock cliff descending into the water
and a view of Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia (where we plan to be the day after tomorrow) in the distance, there isn't much else to see.

The drive down the southwestern side of the peninsula actually provided more enjoyable scenery with frequent vistas of large farms and the ocean.

Our trip "home" took us through the center of the province's capital, Charlottetown.  There we stopped by St. Dunstan's Basilica, another architecturally remarkable Catholic Church.


Some final observations on PEI ...

   1.  In addition to cattle we saw many horses across the island, some used for horse pulls, some for sulky racking and others for pulling "rakes" for harvesting of seaweed.

    2.  There are many "For Sale" signs for both residential and commercial properties.  Yet, with only a few exceptions, even these properties are neatly maintained.

   3.  For visitors, the road signage is as good as anywhere we've traveled.

   4.  Aside from the fragrant firs and spruces, there are many beautiful stands of white birches, which are sadly dying out in many places in the US.

   5.  I've mentioned the number of churches on PEI,  Well, there are at least as many, if not more, cemeteries; between fields or residential properties, surrounded by trees and even in "Vs" between road intersections ...and all are well mowed and maintained.

   6.  For all the pristine landscaping, other than on come larger commercial properties, there is a noticeable lack of the use of mulch, despite the timber industry on PEI.

   7.  As the fishing/lobstering season ends, scores, if not hundreds of the island's fishermen have have their boats and traps trucked to their homes where they sit until spring.

   8.  We did see a red fox, the island's top predator, but unfortunately were unable to snap a picture.

   9.  As it is fall, farmers are cutting and bundling hay.  On PEI, they roll the bales, stack them end-to-end and then wrap the long rolls in plastic; sometimes extending over one-tenth of a mile in length.


Just before getting back to our campground, we were rewarded with the first sunset we'd seen since before leaving Pennsylvania.


Debbie and I truly fell in love with PEI  Although it is a long way from where we live and we have other extensive travel plans, we hope to someday have the opportunity to return to this beautiful and friendly island for a longer stay.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

North Cape Coastal Drive (10/03/2010)

Today we set out to see the northwest third of Prince Edward Island.  This section of the island was flatter than the central portion we'd visited the past couple of days.  

If the homes we passed (almost all of which were neat, nicely landscaped, well-maintained and had freshly mowed lawns) are any indication of affluence, then this northern section of the island is a little less well off than the Cavendish and Red Coast areas.  

Almost immediately, my well honed theory about the exterior painting of churches went out the window when we passed a beautiful beige church.
in the center of Stanley Bridge.

From there our route took us through Summerside, the second largest town on the island and home to one of the only two Walmarts on PEI.  Heading east our first stop as we headed through Acadian country (anyone remember reading Longfellow's "Évangeline"?) was in Mont Carmel where we stopped at an magnificent Roman Catholic Church, Notre-Dame du Mont-Carmel, overlooking the Northumberland Strait between PEI and New Brunswick

 Just a few miles up the road ... after overtaking a local

we drove just up the road a few kilometers (each one equal to 0.6 miles) to see the famous Bottle Houses.  Created by Édouard Arsenault, who began these works at aged 66, in the days before recycling he gathered bottles from local dance halls, legions, restaurants and the local dump.  The Chapel,  which has hosted both services and small weddings
was constructed from approximately 10,000 bottles.

The Six-Gabled House
made from 12,000 bottles and houses a working pump organ.


And the Tavern.

As we continued up the western shore before heading inland across the shore bordering the Gulf of St. Lawrence, it was apparent that the land was flatter and more forested than the central sections. However, the near total absence of any litter was noticeable!


Other observations included many houses with decorative screen doors,
 many newer and most more up-scale homes designed with attached turret structures,
humorous and creative mailboxes,


homes with miniature replicas of light houses or their own homes in the front yard,
the predictable decaying and collapsed barns, typical in all farming areas,
several decaying lobster/oyster fishing boats.
 some magnificent architecture,
and some other buildings which somehow just missed the mark!

Arriving in Alberton, we were greeted by a number buildings with [mostly black and white] murals on them.





Our next stop was North Cape, the tip of the island.  Approaching North Cape, you see the skyline broken by the towers and blades of the North Cape Wind Farm, which for 25 years has been a world leader in wind energy research and development.  Many different kinds of wind turbines are in operation and help to generate 5% of PEI's energy requirements.
And, of course, there was a light house.

Just south of North Cape is the small town of Tingish, initially settled by the Irish.  In the center of town is another magnificent edifice.

St. Simon and St. Jude Catholic Church
which features a magnificent Louis Mitchell Tracker pipe organ, one of only four left in the world.

And, speaking of churches, we seemed to pass several per hour, ranging from very modest buildings to ornate cathedrals with towering spires.
 




After a little digging, I discovered PEI has 2,360 miles of roadways and just over 300 churches ... or on average one church every 7.8miles!  In fact, they are sometimes sitting across the street from one another, even on very rural roads.

Our last stop was a West Point Lighthouse
where the red sand (the color resulting from the oxidization of iron in the soil) is very fine and soft and the water surprisingly warm.




We may regret saying it, but despite driving roughly 500 miles around PEI, we have yet to see a policeman!